Started test riding on April 2, 2021 at 19884 miles. Currently up to 19996 miles, or 112 since beginning to ride it. Each basic commute to work is 15 miles, and roughly 3.2 volts. Riding into a headwind home cost an extra volt so it can be 3.6 volts for 7.6 miles or 2.8 volts. Also only took 1.8 volts on a 100 deg day instead of a 104 degree day.
Obviously a lot to learn on weather effects on mileage (cooler weather = less volts used for the same distance), hotter weather, long up hill drives, heavy throttle use, head winds, all = lower miles per volt used. Average mileage per volt has ranged from 2.2 miles/volt to 3.7 miles/volt.
So the original analog meter got stuck about 16 or so volts above actual (or above something) after the first test ride. Replacing it with this one, once I figure out how to mount it in a secure and stable way. Would also be nice if I could get consistent readings across multiple electric volt meters but there seems to be a consistent difference between 0.3 v and 0.7 volts.
Ended up changing out the rear blinkers as the base ones with rubber boots are pretty much crap. Yes they blink well without a flasher relay, but they break easily at the stems and if tightened enough to stay firm the post will pull out of the blinker material.
So I ended up ordering some more set screws and other pieces I thought I could use but ended up buying most of the pieces from Home Depot. End result? Used a double set screw for each location with locktite red, the 2nd screw to keep the first in place. Had to adjust the tire and take the chain off to work on it but that wasn’t too bad. Also added a collar lock tight against the sprocket to keep the sprocket from moving should the key find someway out again, which may be unlikely as I added an end cap to the shaft as it is a threaded 7/16-20 shaft. The concern with the shaft cap is that is clockwise to the view while the rotation is counterclockwise so it does have the potential to unscrew despite the additional locktite on it.
Was a bit surprised to find the key that fell out while riding sitting in the motor guard (put in to keep road items from bouncing up and hitting the bottom of the motor or sprocket).r
So I take the bike the on first ride to work and guess what happenns? C’mon, guess. If you read the title and said, “you got towed” you would be correct. After about 20 miles of test rides including 5 into work the sprocket set screws and key managed to work themselves out by Grant and Oracle. At least there was a turn off where i could pull over and figure out what was going on. What was going on was they key came out and the shaft just turned inside the sprocket. Ugh. one thing i did not have tools to fix the problem.
Waiting for tow truck, note the rubber cover and cardboard battery covers.
So finally got around to making a basic sprocket cover from an aluminum roll, replacing last week’s venerable card-board cover. Also swapped out the bottom cover to protect the motor from road debris. Haven’t decided if i will keep it or go with an acrylic side panel so the sprocket is visible.
Sprocket Cover, the black tape is to keep me from slicing my fingers up. Function before form.
Aluminum roll bottom cover, just to protect the motor from items kicked up by the front tire.
So looking to improve on the off-the-mark performance (the 10 T front to 40 T rear was pretty good but the chain kept impacting the swing arm) I swapped out the front sprocket to a 16 T and then replaced the rear sprocket with a 46 T as the 16:40 ratio was just too slow at start.
Seems a bit faster off the mark but I think i need to reprogram the throttle control again and start with the default (linear) curve to see how the throttle responds when riding. I feel like i’m getting a bit of herky jerky motion on start just with a basic throttle twist.
So while wrapping up some of the EV related items ( still have to cut the sprocket guard and bottom plate from sheet metal and ordered a 46T rear sprocket), I gave the Honda GL500i a bit of attention this morning.
Looking at some possible reasons it was running cold on the right cylinder (it is a 2 cylinder 500 cc engine) I made changes to the air filter, the carb knob below the carbs, and the right spark plug connection.
The air filter, pictured below, is a mess. Not sure which previous owner thought this was a good idea but the whole thing reeks of engine fumes. Ordered a new one today.
Adjusting the knob below the carbs allowed the motor to idle at a higher rpm without adjusting the choke. Nice. Even nicer when I pulled the spark plug connection out and as soon as i broke the connection, but had not removed the cable, spark was made and the right cylinder fired up as well. The engine sounds a lot better that way.
Was able to ride it up hill in my driveway twice before taking it down the street and around the neighborhood & then back up my driveway (steep and short ends). Just need to fix the fork seal leaks, the leak by the clutch pedal, and figure out what the rear leak is from. As it is a shaft drive the rear leak could be from the connection to the wheel though it is not obvious from just looking at the tire (but the leak is only evident on the bottom half of the tire).
Air filter installed when purchased from previous owner … nuff said. Ordered a new one.
